Mataranka Homestead & Kakadu

Well the holiday has kinda started for me. So far it's been about getting up here. I was planning on spending the night at Daly Waters with a couple from Syd, but as I arrived, they declared they wouldn't be staying as the camp grounds were not as good as they remembered.

But luck has it, Craig from Wodonga, on his Suzuki VStrom 650 was about to leave Daly Waters stopping further up north. We starting chatting and I checked on the web for available accomdation and I select Mataranka Homestead. He left but I had to have a beer at this famous pub. As you can tell from the pics, there are the usual hats, tops etc all hanging from the wall. To be honest it was a real let down. Points for trying, but they could do a lot better. Does not hold a candle when comparing the Birdsville, William Creek, Innamincka pubs.

There was a tour bus with 20 something onboard and they decided to play a game of 10 pin bowling on the road in front of Daly Waters Pub. The pics don't do it justice, but the boys at the pub became very interested in the game :)

We decided on budget motel rooms at the homestead rather than set up camp. I had some personal things I needed to attend to, so Craig went into the hot springs whilst I worked away. Later in the evening we headed for the bar, had a few ales and dinner and then the band came on. Whist the band was having a break, a guy who builds and promotes whips did some fantastic displays of cracking whips and getting people from the crowd involved. Really impressive place and would go back.

Today was a relaxing start with only 100km to get to Katherine. Stocked up on food and water from Woolworths, had breakfast along the banks of what I assume is the Katherine river and then headed for Kakadu. The road in from Pine Creek to Cooinda was like the black spur but at higher speed. Turns!!!!! I finally got to lean over the bike and have some fun. That's about +50km of bliss, so I was very happy. Haven't seen a turn where I had to lean in many many days. 

There are several areas where you can camp in Kakadu. They are all run by the same company and cost $36 per night for a non powered site. FU#$%^ highway robbery. but hey - it's the same company that runs Uluru, so expect to pay through the nose.


My camping ground for the next 3 nights. 

Seriously??????

Tennant Creek

Today was a tad over 500km slog to Tennant Creek. The only interesting site seeing / to do was Devils Marbles. Last time I was up here, I spent only 30 min and was in awe of the rock formations. So I left myself extra time to walk through the marble shaped rocks. 

I've plenty of pics and some are below. How did the rocks form that way??

Answer - the Egyptians cut square rocks and placed them on top of one another and created the pyramids. Big deal. Try doing that with round rocks!! So once the aliens had completed the pyramids, all facing true north they decided to fly over to good old Aus and tackle something harder. They created the round rocks and then perched them, some almost falling over on top of each other.  

The real answer, many 1,000's of years ago, the earth created the rocks and pushed them up which resulted in many being on top of others. Personally I like my story better and if I was wearing a ranges outfit, I bet 80% of the tourists would believe it.  

The nights so far have been cold and then heat up. I've suffered some heat stroke today. When you leave it's 5-6 degrees and you are rugged up. As the day progresses, obviously heat increases, but you get used to it. At about 1pm, wearing thermals and winter jacket, I stripped back to full summer gear. But it was too late. Body heat and obviously not enough water and I'm pretty light headed with a nice head ache to boot. I have consumed 1.5 hydralytes (spilled half) and still not quite right. So I will be having a beer, then water, beer then water.

Currently 28 degrees C in Tennant Creek. Just looked at Daly Waters temp and at present 32. The Daly Waters pub is my next stop tomorrow. I've been told the Barra burgers are great. 

If you haven't been to Tennant Creek, then think of a Mad Max movie. Very similar to Burke NSW. All the shops have big security shutters on the windows, alcohol places caged up and serve you a six pack through the wire. It's not a very safe place at night on your own. There's a big aboriginal presence here and last time I was here I learnt that apartheid was living strong in Aus. Black pubs and white pubs. Don't mix the 2!! Last time we purchased take away from the cage outside the black pub. I noticed a policeman there today checking all the patrons and take away orders.  

Well I'm going to have some water and then my 2nd beer and then off to chat with a couple I met at Wycliffs roadhouse who are also at the Tennant Creek Caravan Park..

Interesting characters you meet on the road.

In the Alice camp ground kitchen, I had dinner with a prison parole officer whose history is with aboriginals primarily around WA side of Great Central road. He had a huge love / respect for them and shared a few tales. He accepted a job with Alice Springs Corrections dept (?) and cant find affordable rentals. So he is camping for now. Rent up here is at a premium. Much higher returns than Melb or Syd but not as much capital growth.

Last night I met Ron from Sydney who is going up the Gibb River Road to Drysdale Station for a big adventure rider catch up. In his mid 60's riding an older style bike (DR 650) and has over 205,000 km's on it. Him & the bike have done Russia 3 times, road of bones twice & Isle of Man twice. Gave me some great advice and also a place to get bigger / better soft panniers.

Seriously I need to win tatts!!!

PS : Check out the male and female Peacocks at the caravan park. Just 3 mtrs from my cabin.

Click on the photos to see them in full size.

Marla and Alice Springs

I miscalculated the amount of km's I had to do in the day and I slept in and took my time packing up camp. I did not leave until after 10am and had +600km's to do. Ouch. It was a hard slog on the bike. I made Coober Pedy after 2pm and still had 235 km's to go. I was knacked and had enough. Mentally drained and physically wrecked. My bum and right arm and hand were sore. But I made the itinerary and knew getting to Tenant Creek involved long days.

So after a rest at Coober Pedy and a phone call to Marla asking did they have cheap cabins available, I was on my way. During this stint I overtook a gentleman riding a Triumph Thruxton. 80km's prior to Marla is a roadhouse called Cadney Homestead. All I wanted was a ale and a 15 min break and I was soon met by Pat, the gent on the Triumph. I'd say mid 50's, semi retired (his business allows him to get away for 1-3 months over winter). He is from Alexandra in country Vic and every year takes either an Aus or OS bike trip. This time it is a quick 1 month short lap of Aus outback. In 2011 he completed a similar trip to what I am thinking of completing now, which lasted 3.5 months. Got some great advice from him. We both carried on to Marla and then continued a great chat over a few more ales and dinner. Some great tales from his 2013 Canada and Alaska trip. And glad to see the Hawkers win over Buddy!

As we left Cadney HS roadhouse, an old local from Darwin was there next to his 1980's KLR motorbike. An old relic which had seen better days. Bald back tire and he was off to Ceduna (better hope he avoids rain). We we arrived he was bragging about how good his bike was. It was time for him to leave and he spent about 20 min trying to kick start it. Pat and I offered to help, push start or kick start but he was quite stubborn and did not want any help. He got quite upset with the bike and moved it about 50 mtrs away from us to start kick starting again. We offered our help again, got the no thanks and we left him. It was closing in on 5pm and I doubt he left the roadhouse that night.

Early start from Marla for Alice Springs and arrived and had camp up by about 3pm. Now showered, wearing shorts, t-shirt enjoying the 25 degrees temp.  But come 7pm it will cool down to about 4 degrees C.
The final 100km's into Alice and the terrain changes for the better. Rocky outcrops grow into small mountain ranges which then eventually turn into the McDonnell Ranges. Last time I was here, I went with a tour group on a bus for the day. It was awesome but way too many tourists for my liking. Almost all the photo's had a tourist or 5 in them. Pete and I will give these a go when we arrive in Alice in 2-3 weeks.

During my rest day in Alice, I still had to ride. I wanted to ride to the first town on the Plenty Hwy. It's supposed to be a dirt road, going west from Alice to Winton Qld. Some great scenary of the west McDonnell ranges. But for my 70km stretch it was a one laned rd and I had 3 roadtrains come against me and had to stop, move way of the rd and let them by.

So far I have passed 5 "nutters" going up to Darwin by pushbike. Nutters yes, but pretty heroic stuff. In Marla, the cabin next to mine was a husband and wife (mid / late 50's) from Melb who are riding to Darwin. It took them 4 weeks to ride to Marla (just sth of NT border) and were 4 days behind schedule as every day bar 4, they have had head wind. I asked them, "Why?" and they answered "Why Not?", "Something to do". Not my cuppa tea and hugely dangerous with roadtrains overtaking.

6:30am at Marla. Sun rise over the Oodnadatta Track.

The only 200km stretch in Aus where the speed limit it open. ie go for it. And me on my small bike and not the Golf GTD or Triumph Explorer. Maxed at 157km's (GPS) and that was enough. I want to get to Darwin!!

Road Restrictions sign for Plenty Hwy. I think I will have to put this on the bucket list.

Woomera

I'm now in the OUTBACK!!! Yeh!!!! Wearing shorts and a t-shirt and finally in my tent.

Camping in the caravan park at Woomera. Woomera is just shy of 500km north of Adelaide or 375km south from Coober Pedy.  It's known for being a remote RAAF base but most specifically a missile test range. The town was closed to the public ie only defence personnel only, but that has changed and is now open to all. But the land in the area, assume 100's km's in area is probited land used for the missile testing.  Roxby Downs is also close by and services the Olympic Dam mine. Iron ore, copper, gold and of cause uranium.

So like all good caravan parks in the outback, they have a bar. Opens at 4pm and  tourists come in. Cheap camping fees of $10 per night (unpowered) but they will be getting extra from me for a few ales. Pure Blonde is $4, so can't complain :)

Leaving Mt Barker this morning was an adventure of it's own. From Mt Barker, you have to climb over and down some hills (assume the Adelaide hills) on a 3 lane hwy speed zoned 110km. To top off the pissing down rain, it was foggy. I could see the tail lights of the car in front of me, but had trouble seeing the car in front of him. And like all helmets, my glasses and visor fogged up. No carnage though. All the cars drove to the conditions and never did anyone had to slam on brakes etc. I assume it's business as usual during winter time for those commuting to work. If Melb or Syd had those conditions, I suspect the road would be closed due to several bingles every day. Patience was required and not road rage.

I took a break at a rest stop and this caterpillar slid past. Between my legs and straight to the rear tyre of the bike. He came up to the trye, tried to get up and then decided nope, not tasty, I'm outa here and then went on his merry way. I was surprised at how quickly he slithered along. But given he was slithering in open ground, I wonder how long until a bird takes an interest in a big meal.
This trip is going to be an adventure, but I'm also trying to eat a little better. So the pic below is a rest stop having salmon rolls for lunch. Yum.

This trip is going to be an adventure, but I'm also trying to eat a little better. So the pic below is a rest stop having salmon rolls for lunch. Yum.

The bar, stumbling distance from my tent.

Temp tonight about 6-7 C min and then low 20's :) But it's now 6pm, having had my 2nd beer and contemplating my 3rd (sorry kidding myself - you know I will have another). It's starting to cool down, so I think I will have the dried meal in a bag. Just add boiling water - Chicken Tikka, Curry or Nasi Goering.... hmmmm. It's a 1st for me, so we'll see how they taste.

Just had a beer with the owner of the caravan park & apparently Woomera is a busy town.  If it's not jets flying around its bombs (missiles ) going off. All the area is owned by defence. All business is owned by defence. You can only live here if you do 30hrs work per week. Ie a couple can do 20 + 10 hrs. If they dont, they need to leave Woomera within 28 days or seek an extention. 

I asked about theft in the park & they laughed and advised they can't remember the last theft. No riff raff in town. So panmiers stay on the bike tonight.

Adventure Started

Take 2. I spent about an hour on today's blog and it appears to not have saved. So impressed :(.

Oh well......

A quick recap..... Left home this morning just after 5:30am and finished up 30km's shy of Adelaide (723km's). It was the worst day of riding I have done. The Ballarat region was typically cold, but after that it started to rain and it is still raining. All my wet weather gear is soaked and unfortunately the rain came through. Shivering for hours on the bike took it's toll. 

So rather than set up a tent in the rain, I have booked a cabin at the Mt Barker caravan park. The heater is on full bore, clothes hanging up drying out and I had a long long shower. Feeling sooo much better now.

Pics below showing the bike and the park. All from the nice warm doorway of my cabin.

Much of my adventure will be solo. So along with a big first aid kit I also have a stack of tools. I will be able to change tyres / replace or repair  tyre tubes and general bike maintenance. Well I have the tools for maintenance, just wish I knew "stuff" about bike maintenance ;)

Along with the tools, I have a Spot. It is on most of the time (chews through AAA batteries) but it tracks my position every 10 minutes and displays it on a map. You can view my progress here.  Not only is it useful for tracking, it has an SOS feature. When the emergency is activated, the USA will contact 000 and the search and rescue begins. For added security, I have also purchased a Satellite phone. Costs a fortune and will only be on when there is no Telstra coverage, for the just in case moment.

Early night tonight for an early start tomorrow.